For the "Bed and Bath in Albania" campaign, I went to Albania with Mirsa and her husband Jasper. We have visited old acquaintances in strategic places along Via Egnatia, trying to persuade them to start a B & B, that is: to do some home improvement like build a suitable bathroom and ask a little money for the hospitality provided. That money is not at all self-evident. For most people there, old-fashioned Balkan hospitality is still the norm. And no matter how noble that is, now that more and more people are walking through Via Egnatia, we cannot always let people provide free accommodation. They are poor, often extremely poor. And they defend their honor with fervour! The men often with more vigour than the women. We usually had to talk at length to persuade them! Especially Mirsa then, who is originally Albanian.
For example, there was a middle-aged couple who did not want to accept money from guests. They did, however, periodically go to Greece to earn a living and to have their children study. When we told the woman that the walkers would like to contribute to the study of the children, the idea became more attractive. Eventually they tacked and were happy with the sponsorship of a refurbishment for their bathroom.
Another family consisted of a widow with nine children. They are extremely poor, living together in two rooms. They have a small café with a "squat toilet". Passing hikers often spend the night in the school next door or camp on a meadow. When we proposed to turn the cork-toilet into a better bathroom for the passers-by, to serve breakfast in the café and to ask for some money, they became very enthusiastic! They happened to have a son-in-law who was a plumber and could install everything himself. With € 500 these people were greatly helped and they have an extra means of existence.
That way we could help four families immediately. It was very moving to experience how grateful they were. The hugs, the coffee and the raki were actually meant for you all - generous givers...

Marietta van Attekum

see also Accommodation for places to stay in Albania

The night accommodation for walkers is not always available within a day’s walking, especially in Greece. You may have to take a bus or taxi to the nearest accommodation or town. But don’t hesitate to ask if someone is willing to have you stay in his/her home. This may help you, but it will also stimulate people to start a homestay or B&B. For most hotels that are mentioned only by their name Google Maps provides the information you need. For those hiking camping gear, camping is possible near virtually every village and in between. Ask in the villages.

Albania

North-Macedonia

Greece

Turkey

Via Egnatia by bike

Tom Jones from Wales UK travelled Via Egnatia by bike in April/May 2015 from Durrës to Istanbul. See also Walkers experiences.

He used a touring bicycle (not an ATB, All Terrain Bike or mountain bike), which compelled him to use mainly the main roads.

This is what he wrote:

I have put together my cycling overview notes and tried to present it in a compact format for reading and printing.

I have not attempted to refer to the details contained in the ‘VE on foot’ book and I have used my cycling ‘mindset’ to set out the itinerary and routing descriptions.

If you have any thoughts or comments about how it could be improved do please let me know. If it doesn't fit with your VE Foundation principles just say so - I realise it is quite different to the journey by foot.

I am also intending to prepare the same overview for the Via Appia (Rome to Bari) which I have purposefully kept separate from this one on the VE. Both might be of interest to the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Jerusalem whom I will contact when I have completed the VA overview.

Regards

Tom

We want to publish his report without any changes in the content for the benefit of cyclists who want to share his experience, whom we still advice to have our guide at hand if they want to explore more of the trajectory as laid out for walkers.

Other cyclists are invited to share their experiences as Tom did.

Download his report

Thanks Tom

Via Egnatia on Foot  Part 2

A journey into history

From Thessaloniki into Turkey

(with car and bycicle travel tips)

Dear Via Egnatia friends,

The Via Egnatia Foundation is very proud to present the new book on the second part of the Via Egnatia. From now on you can do the ‘guided’ walking tour or bike trip from Thessaloniki to Edirne in Turkey. One can even do the trip by car.

Via Egnatia on foot, Part 2, covers a distance of more than 550 kilometers. The book starts just as our first book with practical tips for travellers (chapter 1) and a description of the history of the Via Egnatia (chapter 2). In chapter 3 all relevant aspects of the trail are described in a general way. For instance conditions of the road, description of the landscape and the practical use of the maps. In chapter 4 you will find detailed information on the original Via Egnatia stages of the trail; long distances are cut up into separate walking sections. Each stage/section provides a description and a map of the track, interesting historical and cultural facts and monuments, illustrated with beautiful pictures. At the end we present the traveller two options to enter Turkey: one leads you to Edirne, the other one crosses the border to Ipsala.

In general this trail is not difficult for walkers, although after heavy rain it may be less easy and circumstances may differ considerably, so some improvisation can be requested. Although our description aims at walkers, in chapter 5 we include special information for people who want to discover the Via Egnatia by bike or by car. In chapter 6 we give information on the historical and actual background of the region.

Both Via Egnatia books are meant for the traveller who is interested in the history and culture of the Balkans. The landscape is beautiful, there are many remnants of the interesting past, people are hospitable as ever, so you can expect a wonderful experience. If you want to know more about the people along the road and their history, you can find suggestions for further reading in appendix B. In appendix A we have included a list with useful words and expressions in Greek and in Turkish, so you will be able to communicate at a basic level with the people you meet on the way.

If you order the book you also receive the GPS-data. The third edition of our first book Via Egnatia on Foot, Part 1, is still for sale. We hope you will enjoy your trip as much as we did!

Order here.